The Tree is Dead

The iconic Tree of Ranoch Moor (aka the Jeremy's Tree to many) is no more... A tree that was a focal point for countless photographs, a trunk that inspired hundreds - if not thousands. A meeting point for plentiful workshops, seminars, courses, retreats....



We first were introduced to the tree in 2009 during one of the photo workshops with Jeremy Walker - and over the few days we have visited the tree in the morning, afternoon, evening - at any time of the day and in all possible weather conditions. And each time hoping for some good light...

after 3 early mornings and -12C finally we got the light!

waiting for the perfect light...

It was a training ground to many. A reference point for framing, composing, getting the hyperfocal right... The tree was photographed from every possible angle and in each direction.

An icon that probably could outshine many of the top catwalk models when it comes to the number of lenses pointed at!The tree was also an apple of discord on the long and cold mornings when groups of photographers, after dragging their feet at 4am from a cosy bed just to stand under the cloudy sky in hope for a nice sunrise, would find a bunch of tripods already planted in the position with their owners desperately looking at the clouds where the sun should soon appear.

Some wound wander off in disappointment, some would actually ask us to move as we were in their frame. Emotions were high and the global tripod battle was on the brink...

And so Jeremy's Tree is no more adding to the misery of many of the photographers who already suffered from the declining sales. One still remains in place though - but be early as its bound to be crowded with tripods!

**********************
A large size prints or canvas of many of the photographs are available (contact via email) - or for commercial purposes you can purchase the photo of the Glencoe Sunrise via ALAMY . 

a BIGGER win!

WOW This time the image has been commended in... hold on tight!

As the email on one early morning said:

I am delighted to announce that your image has been commended in the People Category in the Open Competition of the Sony World Photography Awards 2012. Your work has been selected from 52,323 images entered from 171 countries. This is an incredible achievement.

And soe the image will be shown in the SWPA winner's book as well as digitally at Somerset House, as part of World Photo, London from 27th April - 20th May, 2012.

And so the matador keeps getting more and more attention:

The photo is for sale either via ALAMY - or contact me directly. Many more photos in this series are for sale - please, contact for details. 

a small win!

Dear Frank Siedlok,
I am delighted to let you know that your picture “Regret” has one first prize in the People Category of the National Geographic 2011 photography contest.

National Geographic photographer, John Burcham, said of your picture:

“This image really captures a moment of real pain and frustration. The composition is excellent with the way the bull leads you to the matador.”

I would like to wish you a wonderful Christmas and very happy New Year.

Best regards,
National Geographic magazine

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And the winning shot:

But there was more to this story. First, we got a nice free tasting of Bowmore whilst listening to Colin Prior talking about his travels and photography (link).

The evening was fab and we left with some valuable new knowledge of what judges in competitions are normally looking for as well as a few Bowmore miniatures.

The tips from Colin helped to choose the right shot - and the miniatures came handy to celebrate!

For more info:

NG competition site: http://www.ipcuk2011.nationalgeographic.com/

Colin Prior's site: http://www.colinprior.co.uk/home/

Bowmore site: http://www.bowmore.com/competitions

*******************
The photo is for sale either via ALAMY - or contact me directly. Many more photos in this series are for sale - please, contact for details.

Ahmend

Ahmed was born in UAE, and so were his 5 children. But that does not mean that any of them has the UAE passport. Quite the contrary. He was born to a traditional family with his father arranging his marriage at the age of 16. Now, only 27, he has a family of 6. He works hard, loves his family – but can only spend 2-3 (late) evenings with them. The rest of the time he drives for one of the many desert safari companies in Dubai.


Ahmed became my driver for a couple of days when in Dubai. I wanted to see and experience the desert - but not necessarily with another 30 people whilst bashing through the dunes until you sick, having 10 minus for "sunset photos" followed by belly dance dinner. So after a bit of negotiations I got my own driver to take me around for photos and to get to know the place.
It definitely was a good choice. Ahmed was brought up with desert being part of his life. He later explained that when there is no work he likes to go to the dessert with his friends, have some food, shisha and sleep under the sky. It's all about the cool night air and clear skies. Even in the summer months he prefers the dunes to the countless shopping malls. He loves the expanse of the desert and nature. His job allows him to spend time outdoor, away from the air-conditioned malls.

But finding the real piece of desert becomes quite a challenge. It took hours of driving and looking for unspoilt dunes that were still unspoilt by the 4x4 tyres. In each direction you culled easily spot yet another Toyota Landcruiser jumping from a dune to dune accompanied by screaming of the passengers paying for the "real desert experience".

"
out in the desert


But just how (un)real is the experience? Well… you will be picked up in the afternoon from our hotel and head for the dunes. After some half an hour of dune bashing you are likely to be taken for the 10-minutes sunset stop before you are harried to one of the "real beduin camps" for dinner and entertainment. There you'll have a chance for some quad-bike and camel riding (both in a circle) and be offered food and drinks. Most of the camps would also provide some "traditional dances": belly dance and fire dance in the camp I visited. up to a hundred of happy tourists are munching on the grilled chicken and mutton kebabs, watching the show and not giving any concern to the fact that none of the dances have anything to do with the place. Belly dancer is actually russian, the fire dance is performed by an Egyptian… Since me and Ahmed were the only people staying overnight other "revelations" soon became apparent: the moment the last car leaves the gates all camp staff slips out of their Arab robes and dress in their Pakistani clothing. Half of the drivers are immigrants who never lived in desert before.



4x4s everywhere...

Skiing slopes, aquariums and other wonders of the countless shopping centres....

Russian belly dancer in the Pakistani-run Beduin camp near Dubai...

We spent hours chatting whilst having shisha. As the darkness fall and the noises of the roaring 4x4s faded away we spoke about Dubai, desert and changes that are happening. Things are changing. Some traditions and respect for the nature are still guarded in the hearts of some like Ahmed, some other are challenged. Ahmed's brother is now 15 and so his father wants him to get married. Ahmed opposed his father, taking the younger sibling under his protective wings. "I want him to learn and enjoy life. I don't want him to start working to support his family at the age of 16 like I did". He wants him to have more time.
Ahmed also takes his kids to the desert - he wants them to understand the connection that they ancestors had with the place, to be part of it, to cherish and understand it. To enjoy the barefoot walk on the sand, the still moment of sitting on a dune, watching the sun go down.





enjoying the place

Unfortunately, most of the "real experiences" offered in Dubai are as artificial and unreal as the whole city. As the night falls the sky above the "real beduin camp", instead of the famous Arabian sky you will see an orange glow of Dubai's lights and countless aeroplanes making their way to or from the airport. Instead of the silence you can enjoy the distant noise of jet engines. The only one element that seems to be real is the sand...



Dunes and camels

B&B in the Mountains

After driving through a road that seemed to be an endless spaghetti of bends and turns we have finally arrived to the heart of Alishan National Park. After reaching one of the peaks the green, peacefully looking mountains bluntly remind us of the power of nature with the daunting remains of the last land-slide: missing roads, hotel torn in half, empty slopes after all the vegetation was forcefully pulled out. We stop at what used to be a hotel – now standing as a skeleton with a large chunk of it hanging above a cliff…


We stay nearby in a B&B and a working farm. After parking the car we start making out way down the hill. As we slowly approach the warm, spring air fills up with scent of caramelized sugar with a hint of ginger. Though it’s only 1st of January, the spring is already manifesting its arrival: cherry trees are shyly letting the first blossom to meet the sunshine, green tea buds are slowly disclosing the yellow flowers in the morning whereas the cane sugar already attracts busy buzz of bees.

The scent thickens as we approach the farm building. First we see a pile of freshly cut sugar cane on the ground and a pile of squashed, flat and lifeless sugar cane stems that have already met the mysterious machine standing between the two stacks. Bees are busily buzzing around, collecting any remaining drops of sweet juice. As the air is getting warmer both the scent and the buzzing intensify.

"
juicy cane sugar


Then we meet our hosts: Mrs Lai and Mr Chen. They both in working attire as in winter, during the season, they are busy with running the farm and making cane sugar. The B&B is open to friends as only one B is provided during the busy times.

During the season the whole life at the farm oscillates around making sugar: from dusk the mysterious machine is making hamming noise squeezing the last drop of syrup from cane sugar, with empty buckets quickly filling up with the sweet juice. Son after the first wok is filled to the brims with the bees-attracting liquid, filling the morning air with the sweet scent. The juice is being boiled till it thickens up enough – or more precisely until the bubbles look right... Again the tacit knowledge seems to be more accurate than any new technology or process...

The brownish soup needs to be constantly stirred and as the cooking proceeds Mrs Lai busies herself up with preparing simple (but tasty!) breakfast and some ginger tea. The cold, refreshing mountain air mixes nicely with the sweet, hot ginger tea. What a way to start New Year.




almost ready!

The bubbles thicken up and the juice is nearly ready. Buzzing on the farm intensifies. Everyone gets ready, taking their position. The first wok is being emptied on the sheet of metal to be cooled down and turned into chunks of cane sugar. Hands, equipped with various tools, busily mix, cut, turn what started as a brownish, glue-like hot paste into baskets of ready-to-be packed sugar.




pouring, mixing, stirring, chopping..


As the evening comes we are invited to have some tea and a drink of together. The evening passes into late hours spend on sipping refreshing green tea grown on the fields nearby and some Kaoliang (高粱酒) to keep warm. It feels like being home. It feels good. Later on we head for our cozy, Japanese style dorm to get some sleep. Tomorrow is an early start to catch the sunrise.







Before we leave our fantastic hosts a surprise arrives: Mrs Lai bought some milk-fish from the fishmonger for us! What supposed to be a simple lunch turns into a feast of many mouthwatering, home-made dishes. And the fish – simple but perfect.
Barely being able to move, we bit our farewell – but for sure we will be back. The best B&B so far. Fact.




The final lunch

Next time you in Alishan national Park, stay at Song-Jolly B&B and Cane Sugar Farm. It's the place to experience!

D300 or D7000?

Similarly to the hundreds of others out there for quite a while I also toyed with the idea of selling D300 and getting the all-new D7000. So when an opportunity of getting a new D7000 for a very reasonable price presented itself I jumped on it...


The fact that I was in an exotic location, where I could put the machine into the tests within hours of the purchase, helped with the decision making process. The idea was to use the opportunity to get a cheap D7000 whilst abroad, get back, sell D300 and reduce the size and weight of my gear bag for future travels whilst improving an overall quality of the pictures (well, technological quality, not necessary meaning that I will take better pictures!). With the Internet buzzing with all the reviews about the greatness and superiority of the D7000 it sounded like the way forward. Well, two weeks later I am back to D300 whilst the D7000 enjoys having a new owner...

By this point many of you are already wondering: why? What’s wrong with it? Is it the hot pixels?
No – I haven’t seen any hot pixels and, if it comes to the picture quality, there is absolutely no problem with the camera. Quite the opposite: sharpness, noise, colour reproduction and metering of D7000 feels like two steps ahead of D300. Improvements in the picture quality are significant, no doubt about that. And there are many other great futures that D300 is in dire need for:
* ISO100 is back in D7000 – which means you may just get away without the 2-step ND filter to get the blur…

* low-light is no more a problem for D7000: ISO1000 produces photos - see for yourself below!

* putting the camera into Live View is now much more usable without the need for going back to your dials.

* the camera is extremely quiet compared with D300. Helpful if you shooting temples or events. And that’s without switching to the Quiet mode

* the virtual horizon is absolutely fantastic. I am not talking about the flight-simulator gadget on the Live View but about using it in your viewfinder. Assign the Fn button to switch your virtual horizon, get all your settings in place, switch it on and off you go: whether it’s a tight indoor shot or a set for panorama you’ll find all your photos perfectly levelled. Sweet!



Handhels @ ISO1000: no noise, great colours...

So, with all the great features and qualities already outlined you probably asking why on mother Earth did I go back to D300? Well, first of all, getting a smaller and lighter camera also meant getting a less comfortable grip, lesser built quality and, after a couple of ours of running around a historic site with a viewfinder glued to your face, pain in your arm. There are also some other caveats that make the switch to a smaller, less robustly built camera hard if you got used to toying with something like D300. So, in a nutshell, things that did not quite work:

* the grip is much less comfortable. It’s thinner and makes your hand feel crammed. I do not have big palms, though the small finger was hopelessly looking for somewhere to rest on. After half a day of running up and down ruined temples my palms were desperately calling for some rest!

* reduction in size also comes with less substantially rubberised grip – something that becomes apparent when you need to held the camera in one hand whilst hanging at the edge of wall holding with one hand to a tree or scaffolding. Probably not the most common position for photos, but I really liked the security that the rubberised grip of D300 provided. It feels that you will have that extra grip when you need it – and save your gear from high-impact meeting with the ground…

* rather annoying effect of down-sizing the camera is much smaller controls wheel at the back of the body. Add the OK button in the middle of the wheel and it becomes less accurate and slower in getting your focus points in the place you what them. Because of the extra button the thumb is not resting as comfortable as on D300. It also feels that the wheel is too low, hence you end up desperately pressing the LiveView lever instead…

* pixels and less buffer also can prove to be a problem in some situations. The buffer fills quickly up, stopping any operations for quite a while (a cup of tea or two…). On a number of occasions the last of the shots of fast-moving objects was the one that worked – well, you may just miss it when the buffer overflows and there is a long period of silence from the shutter! Examples? The two shots below are both taken as one of the last in a sequence…

* finally, if it comes to the built quality, D7000 feels less substantial. For example, pop-up flash feels cheap and about to pop out for ever!


None of the above may be a problem for many – especially if you coming from D90 or some of the smaller cameras. But for me these became a problem and so I will keep my eyes peeled for a wee longer till the D400 (or something similar) comes out.



When good buffer really mattered...

"Face" photography?

An interesting article has been recently published in NYTimes about the changes in the photo industry and how difficult it become to make living from photography (you can read the article here). Indeed, the dynamics have changed - and as an effect hundreds of photo seminars and tours have been mushrooming in the past years - with the prices constantly going up and reaching over a £1000 for a 4 days workshop in Scottish highland (and prices going through the roof for any course overseas). Looks like workshops, safaris, exotic islands are becoming the new bread and butter for many photographers.

But this article got me thinking about some other changes in the way photo industry has been developing. There are some big changes happening in the way photography is developing, affecting meaning (and the prices) of photo gear. One interesting thing happening is in Asia – especially China. It seems to be the next big thing to do: get the most expensive and the biggest SLR to take snapshots (in fully automatic mode) of the most famous landmarks around the world. Nothing to do with real photos you could get with the top-notch gear. What is needed is a snapshot of yourself and your family in front of the landmark. Done within 5 seconds...

It’s not about photography but to be able to show off to your friend that you have been there. Probably only for 5 minutes before the coach whizzed the tour off to the next BIG thing– but that’s surely enough… If you also show them that you went with full frame SLR with the biggest and heaviest lens (both mounted on a cheap tripod) – your face is saved…

Example of how important the landmark photo can be.
The Ye Liu Geological Park in Taiwan is undergoing some maintenance work and part of the park is off limits to visitors. Partly due to the visitors themselves (it was ever so important to carve your name on the rock formation or poke it with an umbrella when taking a photo that the fragile structures were about to fall).

Not only is part of the park closed – but it’s the part with the most known feature: the Queen’s Head rock formation. It’s known not only to Taiwanese – but also to mainland Chinese. And since Taiwan for some strange reason decided to open the tourist market to mainland China (fortunately there are some limitations) and Ye Liu is part of the “must do” itinerary – not the park itself but the Queen’s Head. The face issue seems double here: the “forbidden land” which is off limit just to some. Surely you need a photo to show you went there… (possibly you may also need to carve your name on the neck of the Head or at least touch it…)

Since the head was in the closed part of the park – and consequently the tours not very happy with the situation - the park decided to provide a duplicate of the most famous rock formation. Not only they replicate the head but also ensured that everybody can go back home with the precious shot with the head in the background. To make things easier and faster – traffic management system was put in place, specifying where to queue, where to stand to take a photo and where to stand to be taken photo of… To prevent any risk of non-compliance a “traffic warden” in hi-vis jacket with a whistle keeps an eye on things during the peak periods (i.e. when a tour bus arrives).

Everybody seems to be happy: the park, the Head and the hordes of tourists who came here just to get “the shot” of the (fake!) Head – so now they can show off to their mates (whilst torturing them with 5000 photos taken during the 3-days Grand Tour of Taiwan)…


waiting for your turn...


Quick! the whole bus has just a couple of hours for the whole park so no posing around!


Not only everybody would get a shot with the Head – but all the shots would look exactly the same – things could not be any easier! I hope all the cameras are in Auto and with “smile detector” on – just to make it more consistent…


And I thought that travel and photography were creative and personal pursuits.


I'm sure though that Canon and NIKON are over the moon with the trend – especially since its so important to have the best and latest SLR to take these sophisticated photos.

Would the next big thing would be to take your overpriced gear and get your shots whilst guided by a recognised photographer? Huge and cash rich market seems to be opening up to fill the gap created by shrinking incomes from stock photography. But how many would be able to endure the new breed of wanna-be-photographers???? Not me for sure!


UPDATE: I heard the rumours that the restrictions were because of the inflood of Chinese tourists who did cause a lot of damage to a lot of the sights. Now it was confirmed! The story goes that since Taiwan allowed Chinese tourists to visit new signs appeared in the public places: No Chewing gums, no spitting, no name carving!

I 2009 a 63-year-old Chinese tourist Zhao Genda decided to "CHINA" whilst visiting Yehliu. Others tried as well. So the site - and some others - are now suffering from more anti-vandalism restrictions. Pity as some of these places are magical!

The problem Taiwan is facing now is linked to another face-issue: for a lot of Chinese Taiwan is THE DESTINATION - a face-saver, jealousy-spinning pinnacle of travel. It's got nothing to do with sightseeing. It's the "forbidden fruit" that only some can reach. Add travel to Taiwan to your overpriced and huge camera gear and your FACE is safe... sometimes it all makes you wonder...

OBSERVATORY @ ISLE of MAY

Photographing wildlife requires both time and patience but it can also turn into an unforgettable adventure.

Imagine staying in one of the oldest lighthouses without electricity or shower (yuppie!!) but instead equipped with old-fashioned gas lamps, fire place and with air of history in each and every corner. Standing right on the cliff on a tiny tiny island with some of the largest bird colonies around, you can constantly hear sea waves hitting the cliffs mixed with the chatter of puffins, guillemots, sea gulls and occasionally eiders. When you sit on the porch having a cup of tea you are surrounded by puffins curiously watching your each move. And if you look carefully you can spot well camouflaged young gulls playing in the grass...

Observatory / Low Light at Isle of May



Map of the Isle of May


Some of the neighbours

Tourist boat comes just once a day (the best time for the nap!) and there is just a few others on the island. Most of time it's you and thousands of birds busily feeding their chicks.

When it comes to shooting - probably could not be any better. Starting from the sunrise the birds start their daily rituals. The light is great (if it's not raining that is!) and photo opportunities seem looming at each corner: puffins coming back from the sea or resting on the nearby rocks with bills filled with silver sand eels, razorbills curiously staring into the camera from the cliff below, eiders sitting in the middle of the path. It takes some time to both understand the pattern of behaviour of the wildlife (more about the techniques in the next entry) and for the birds to get used to the guy with a camera. But patience and practice can be hugely rewarding.

Puffins on Isle of May



Feeding time!


By the time the tourist boat comes to the island it's time for a snack and a nap. After a couple of days you feel this is your island!

The two days flew. By the next morning I got up early to get the last few shots but since the weather turned sour I ended up having a cup of tea and a breakfast on the front porch before getting down to cleaning the place. Once I set off I could hear some clapping. I first thought it was the Reserve manager making sure I know about the boat coming but when I went to the door there was nobody... strange...

I returned to the tango with a broom but then could hear more clapping - this time faster and lauder but also seemed coming from inside the lighthouse. Oh no - so the place is haunted I thought! I went to check it out and when I entered the other room I could hear fast clap-clap-clap somewhere around the bulk bed. I get down on the floor to have a look and there it was. Hiding underneath the bed, pretending not to see me (the usual strategy of "if I can't see you you can't see me"). A small, scared but curious puffling.

Safety underneath the bed...

Since I needed to lock the door I took the little fellow out but before I turned around it was back inside... After another chase around the room I got him out and put him underneath the bench and a wheelbarrow outside (sea gulls often try to catch young pufflings that just left the burrow). By the time I made it back inside it was knocking on the other (unused) door proving my point: it's an amazing and unforgettable place to stay. And probably one of the best photo trips ever!

ORKNEY: THE PERFECT PHOTO LOCATION?

Rolling green hills; standing stone circles, lochs, jagged cliffs, stunning sunsets and incredibly diverse wildlife - all of that within maximum an hour drive. Sounds perfect?


Orkney seems a paradise for photographers of many types - whether you into landscape or wildlife or underwater photography. The place seems to be too small to hold all of it and sometimes you may feel it will burst. No surprise that so many photo seminars and workshops are held on the magical islands as finding a great location seems so easy and hassle free.





Archaeological sites like mushrooms are popping up all over the place, at each turn or junction. Being often excavated by the local folks they hold stories and mysteries, they are the local folklore and the mirror into the past. Or rather many different pasts - from 5000 years ago to more recent, but equally fascinating events... History seems to be filling the air and your nostrils. Quirky, mysterious, unexplained but always surprising and engaging. Crime but not always punishment. Clashes of cultures. Twists and turns of unexpected magnitude...



In the summer the days are incredibly long, giving you more than ever time to explore and exploit photographic opportunities. Well, there is one not-so-great side of it: sunset and sunrise are spaced out so closely together that you will not be able to have a relaxing pint in a nearby pub in between. Instead prepare to suffer from sleep deprivation as 3-4 hours of sleep is all you can get if you want to make most of the light. But boy, it can be worth it! Dramatic sky, stone circles, waves fiercely slashing against the vertical cliffs washed in warm light of the sunset... that is if you lucky and got to see some of the sun at the right time! And if you do - it probably would not last.

Six nights and just one sunrise. Would I go back - oh boy, yes as this one hour was well worth it! Empty stone circle filled with busy chirping of birds,refreshing breeze and sun reflecting on the nearby lochs. The feeling of standing in the middle of over 5000 years of history. Time to reflect, time to relax. Time to breath in the unspoilt spirit of the far islands, the nature and purity. Click.



For the same money you could go to Croatia and get your sunset shot with 99% chances of clear sky - but trust me, Orkney will be much more rewarding though you may get just an hour of the perfect light. And for the remaining 5 days immerse into the history, into the ancient graves and dwellings. Combat the elements and enjoy the unpredictability of the weather. From the most dramatic sky to sunshine - in less than 5 minutes. Gale winds followed by the silence and stillness. Certain magnetism filling the air at all the time.

And if you still thrill for more - go for the local Orkney ice cream or the Dark Island.


Enjoying the Scottish Summer